The food provided should be as similar (as possible) to that eaten by tortoises in their natural habitat. It is also important to remember that tortoises, just like people, are quite prepared to eat foods which they like, but which are not necessarily very good for them. For some tortoises any food will do, while others can be very selective, to the point of addiction. This is why variety is again the key to success, remembering that Mediterranean tortoises are basically plant-eaters.

These tortoises do not require large amounts of proteins or fat in their foods, as their digestive systems are not designed to deal with these types of food. They do however need plenty of fibre, and food which is as fresh as possible, to provide them with sufficient vitamins and minerals for good health. This is why grazing, as in the wild, provides the best diet possible in captivity.

It is a good idea to use a suitable vitamin supplement, on a daily basis, to ensure that they remain in good health (suggested supplements are listed at the end) if you use additional food items. If you are using home-grown produce, it is important not to use poisonous chemicals during cultivation e.g. slug pellets.

Organically grown produce from your own garden is better than shop bought produce, as it will not contain harmful pesticides, it can be picked and fed very fresh, and it costs less. Nothing is as good as providing your tortoise with an area with a variety of weeds and grasses from which to graze.

Tortoises need plenty of calcium in their diet to ensure that they remain healthy. This is particularly true of hatchlings and young, growing tortoises. They have to build not just strong bones, but also a large, protective shell which contains a huge amount of calcium. Growing, wild plants are generally high in calcium, which again makes them an ideal food for both adult and young tortoises.

Hatchlings and young tortoises can be very greedy, and will eat large amounts of food every day, if allowed to do so. They are designed to do this for their survival, as in the wild they may not find food for many days at a time. This means that they gorge on food, in case there is none available for some days. In captivity it is important to restrict their intake, otherwise they can over-feed everyday. This leads to a lumpy shell, poor bone formation and other major health problems. Overfeeding is very damaging to a tortoise’s health.

Drinking Water

The tortoise should ideally have access to a shallow bath of clean water from which it can drink at will. This should be flush with the ground level, and large enough so that the tortoise can climb in, as the tortoise needs to be sitting in the water in order to drink. The depth of water should be 1”-2” (2.5cm), so that the tortoise can still breathe. A shallow concrete pond would be suitable, or a bowl of suitable depth. Plastic cat litter trays or photographic trays sunk into the ground have the advantage of being easy to empty and clean. If this is not possible, then the tortoise should be placed in a bath of luke-warm water at regular intervals, at least once per week. You may think that the tortoise is not drinking, but it can be difficult to see if the tortoise is taking in water.

A bath is also a stimulus to pass urates and faeces for many tortoises. This can be very useful to you, as you can check that the urates are milky white and creamy in consistency as they should be. You can also check that the faeces are dark and firm, that the tortoise does not have diarrhoea and that no worms are being passed.

A bath helps to keep your tortoise in good health. For tortoises about to hibernate, or waking up from hibernation, a bath can literally be a life-saver.